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Wednesday, June 27, 2018

A DAY IN MEDIEVAL REGENSBURG, GERMANY




This is a multi-part series about our Danube River Cruise.



Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



Guten tag!  I've got no use for the snooze button today; in fact, I'm out of bed before the alarm goes off. I'm never this chipper at 6:30am, but when the day promises an adventure in a new locale, I spring out of bed like I'm on a trampoline. Yup, I did a double back flip off the side of the bed, and landed squarely on two feet right into my clothes! 

Although I'd love to have another day in Prague, I'm excited that we are headed to the medieval town of Regensburg in Germany's Bavarian region. Regensburg is a Unesco World Heritage site, and has the distinction of being the oldest town on the Danube River. In the early evening, we'll be boarding our ship to begin the river cruise portion of our journey. We've got a big day ahead, so I better fortify myself with an extra chocolate croissant at breakfast.

Mr. Goo Shoes and I double and triple check that we've left nothing in the hotel room. A nice perk of traveling with a tour group is that we don't need to schlep our own luggage. We simply leave it inside our room for pick-up, and take what we need for the day in a small carry-on bag.

It's going to be a 3 1/2 hour bus ride from Prague to Regensburg. I don't mind, just give me that countryside! The city fades away, and before long, the land's spreading out so far and wide.........but hold on........these aren't green acres, they're yellow! Endless fields of golden flowers decorate the landscape..........what are they? Canola fields, says the tour guide. Aahh, that's where my oil comes from. Good to know.





I'm worrying that the snap-snap-snap of my camera every few minutes may be annoying to my fellow passengers, but that problem is soon solved by a chatty group in the back of the bus. My shutter button is no match for their un-shuttered mouths, and I am grateful to them. I continue clicking away through the window.




The views outside the bus are entertaining, but when our guide says we are in for some unexpected traffic that will delay our arrival to Regensburg, I'm suddenly impatient with the scenery.  

Are we there yet??????? 

It's almost 1:00pm by the time we arrive.......an hour late. We were supposed to have a couple of hours for lunch and shopping, but the traffic delay has cut into our free time prior to the walking tour.  

Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



In order to get to the Old Town of  Regensburg, it's a short walk across the Old Stone Bridge, a pedestrian traverse which was built between 1135 -1146. For 800-ish years, it was the only bridge across the Danube River. Apparently, the old stone bridge, she ain't what she used to be.........she's having a facelift and undergoing repairs. No matter........the scenery ahead is what counts.

Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



I've done my research and know exactly where I want to eat lunch. Our friends opt for a cafe just over the bridge, but Mr. Goo Shoes and I head to Historische Wurstkuchl, aka, the Historic Sausage Kitchen. And by historic, we're talking about 500 years of making bratwurst. It's supposed to be the oldest working restaurant in the world.

Historische Wurstkuchl (Historic Sausage Kitchen) in Regensburg, Germany, is the oldest working restaurant in the world, and has been making bratwurst for 500 years.| Ms. Toody Goo Shoes  #HistorischeWurstkuchl #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruiseRegensburg, Germany, a medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise


Historische Wurstkuchl (Historic Sausage Kitchen) in Regensburg, Germany, is the oldest working restaurant in the world, and has been making bratwurst for 500 years.| Ms. Toody Goo Shoes  #HistorischeWurstkuchl #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruiseRegensburg, Germany, a medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



In the interest of time, we order at the takeout window. Two sausage sandwiches with the sweet mustard they are equally famous for, and one with sauerkraut for me. We sit outside, on the banks of the Danube. Now this is my kind of dining!

Historische Wurstkuchl (Historic Sausage Kitchen) in Regensburg, Germany, is the oldest working restaurant in the world, and has been making bratwurst for 500 years.| Ms. Toody Goo Shoes  #HistorischeWurstkuchl #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruiseRegensburg, Germany, a medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



As soon as we finish, I'd like another, but fortuitously, we save room for dessert. Just around the corner, we find Strudelei, a Bavarian-Austrian bakery serving homemade strudel. Mr. GS chooses apple; I opt for cheese, and we both say, "Yes, please" to the warm vanilla sauce. Oh, this is delish! Lunch has been a home run!

Stopping for a piece of strudel at Strudelei in Regensburg, Germany is a must! | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes  #strudelei #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



We meet up with our friends and stroll around for a bit before our walking tour starts. We are to gather at Regensburger, which contrary to my initial thought is not a fast food joint; 
it is the huge cathedral (aka Regensburg St. Peters) which we saw from the bridge as we walked into town. It's not hard to find our way there, as the spires can be seen from pretty much everywhere. 





Regensburg St. Peters Cathedral in Regensburg, Germany | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #Regensburgcathedral #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



To be truthful, Mr. GS and I have mixed feelings about being in Germany. It's hard not to think about Hitler's Germany, under which millions of Jews were murdered in the Holocaust. My thoughts turn serious, as I remember a blog post written by my Rabbi after a visit to Munich. She wrote about her conflicted feelings, ultimately reconciling them by accepting that this current generation should not be judged by past sins of previous generations; that the alternative of having all of Europe be a silent, sacred burial ground is not desirable. And, honestly, she asks, where in this world could one walk where there are not stories of suffering to be told? Yet, we must never, never forget.

Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



With her thoughts in my head, we set off to explore this medieval city as it is today. I don't feel guilty enjoying Resgensburg. The pedestrian-free old town is a feast for the eyes; colorful and vibrant! There are picturesque narrow streets and bustling squares, filled with people enjoying the early arrival of summer weather at outdoor cafes. We are lucky to see this city in all its warm-weather glory. I wish we had time to sit at a cafe and just soak in the atmosphere.

Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



Our guide mentions that is is quite affordable to live in Regensburg. I know that look in Mr GS' eyes........He's ready to sign on the dotted line when he hears how relatively inexpensive it is to rent a 2 bedroom/2 bath apartment in the center of town. "We could rent for a year, and use it as a base to tour all of Europe."  He knows that saying this to me is like offering catnip to a cat, so I know he's serious, at least in the moment. For insurance purposes, though, I should probably record him, and play it back when he says, "I never said that."

Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



Even I think an entire year is unrealistic........ maybe three months would be better. Regardless, I am tempted to jump in with both feet, and will google airbnd when we get home........just to have a little look-see. We're certainly not ready to do this anytime soon.  The fact that Regensburg is dead-center in Europe and is close to a train station ups the ante. But live in Germany? I know we have friends and family that would raise their collective eyebrows. I figure we'll tweeze those brows when we get to them.

Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



As if she can read the bit of unease in our minds, our guide notes that there are about 1000 Jews living in Regensburg today.........yes, a tiny percentage of the overall population of 150,000-ish, but still. In fact, the city is trying to raise funds to build a synagogue. If we ever do rent here, I vow to support them.

Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise




It's mind-boggling to learn that Regensburg's history spans some 2000 years. Antiquities are visible around every corner, such as the narrow ancient towers looming over shorter buildings, which, interestingly, served no real purpose when they were built other than to announce the owner's status.  

Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



I'm a little frustrated that we move through so quickly. Being on a tour means that you can't linger and take pictures. There's a lot of snapping on the go.......no time to stop for that perfect shot. I'm hoping to get lucky with a few. 

Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise




We end our walking tour in a peaceful, green square behind the Bischofshof Hotel. It would be great to quench our thirst with an ice cold brew in the beautiful Biergarten. Never mind that I'm not crazy about beer, but when in Germany..........

Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



It's time to make our way back to the bus. Walking over the bridge, we note the beauty of the town we had our backs to on the way in.  Stadtamhof is pretty as a postcard, and it would be lovely to have time to wander around, but we are on a tight schedule. It's time to make our way to our floating hotel!

Stadtamhof, Germany is picture-perfect! | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes
Stadtamhof, Germany

Stadtamhof, Germany is picture-perfect! | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes
Stadtamhof, Germany


As we ride through the countryside for two hours, my German appetite is whet. I want to see more, but I have to be content with what I'm seeing through the bus window. As we ride through the charming town of Passau, it's tempting to get off the bus. Could we Uber to the ship?

Passau, Germany is picturesque town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #passau #germany #danuberivercruise
Passau, Germany

Passau, Germany is picturesque town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #passau #germany #danuberivercruise
Passau, Germany


I don't know it now, but the ship will come back to Passau later this evening where it will dock overnight.  When we're back in NJ and I re-read some of the materials we got on the cruise, I'lI realize we could have gotten off the ship and walked around Passau. Sadly, an opportunity missed. 

Passau, Germany is picturesque town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #passau #germany #danuberivercruise
Passau, Germany


Our river boat, the MS Joy is in sight. The excitement of this being our home for the next week is building. Walking across the gangplank, we've all got huge smiles on our faces. We are greeted with cold towels, and glasses of champagne. So far, so good! After settling into our cabins, we meet our friends in the lounge and toast the week ahead.

 Danube River Cruise | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #danuberivercruise


Passau, Germany is picturesque town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #passau #germany #danuberivercruise



Tomorrow we will be in Austria! 

To be continued......... 


This is a multi-part series about our Danube River cruise. 

Read 10 Things To Know About River Cruising here.  
Read Our First Day In Prague here.
Read Day 2 In Prague here.
Read Day 3 In Prague here
Read Picturesque Towns of Austria Part 1 : Engelhartszell here.
Read Picturesque Towns Of Austria Part 2: Salzburg here.
Read Picturesque Towns Of Austria Part 3: Durnstein here.
Read Scenery Of The Wachau Valley here
Read Vienna: Exploring The Old Town here.
 Read Bratislava: Slovakia's Charming Capital here.
Read Budapest: The Pearl of the Danube River here.






Regensburg, Germany is charming medieval town on the Danube River | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #regensburg #germany #danuberivercruise



Resources:

Historische Wurstkuchl (Historic Sausage Kitchen)
Strudelei
Tauck River Cruises





Linking With: 
Best Of The Weekend 
Our World Tuesday 
Take Me Away 





15 comments:

  1. Despite feeling rushed on the walking tour you got some really great shots! Such pretty pictures.

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  3. Amy, you’re REALLY good at this. Truly. Your words give me a real sense of what your day was like, what you ate, how you felt, the whole enchilada. Or maybe strudel.

    One thing I took away from this post is there are definitely compromises on a tour. Your feeling of being rushed is definitely a trade off for the conveniences tours offer.

    I’m LOVING the idea of spending time there and touring Europe. My wheels are turning. Who knows, maybe we’ll be expat bloggers together! lol

    xxx

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  4. Amy, I would love to have seen that double back flip! This post with your usual story-telling photos is such a great start to this next portion of your trip. Of course you had me with lunch on the banks of the Danube and especially that strudel. And my goodness, if you and Doreen did someday join forces there in Regensburg that would be a book worth writing about! I had wondered myself what it might be like for you to tour Germany and your rabbi's thoughts on the subject are wise. And I suppose your Mark Twain quote on the side makes even more sense in context.

    I can't wait for the next episode, Amy, and learning more about your experience with river cruising!

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  5. Amy, you had me on the edge of my seat. I felt like you brought me with you. You really are good at this and I can feel your excitement in your words.

    So many pretty photos. I was giggling at all your snippets of comedy. I was imagining the eyebrows

    So happy for you

    Cindy

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  6. Beautiful photos, Amy! I'm loving reading about your trip. I would have a hard time passing by all those pretty towns and knowing I couldn't stop, too :) Your conflicting thoughts are totally understandable. It has to be hard to visit Germany without the past being on your mind constantly. I've traveled to a few places lately where I've had similar thoughts.

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  7. What a cute town! That strudelei looks scrumptious! Enjoying your tour.

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  8. Very interesting post! Your pictures are all great and tell a story all their own, along with your witty commentary. That is the one negative in taking a tour through Europe...it is fast and you have to catch what you can on the way! I think you did pretty good :-)

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  9. I enjoyed your blog. I've been to Prague and many parts of Germany though I don't recall going through Regensburg. So much to see and do whenever on holiday. You packed in quite a lot it seems.

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  10. Sounds like a great trip. History, great food and Gothic architecture, all in one go!

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  11. What a fabulous place! Beautiful shots.

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  12. Amy, Your pictures look as if you had lots of time to get the best shot. I know exactly how you felt because we were just there in early May! We didn't have a lot of time after the walking guided tour but while I popped in a shop my husband enjoyed sitting at a bier garten on the square and managed to order all in german. He was rather proud of himself. Our ship, the Viking Gullveig did stop in Passau for a organ concert in the cathedral and have lunch on our own eating a great German meal with my husband ordering again in German. All his language on tape listening paid off.
    There is so much to say but I am on a time crunch. Look forward to reading your other posts. I have been so busy after our return I've only done one travel post and it was our post cruise trip to France.
    Glad to have found your post on Shelley's Take me Away Party.

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  13. What an amazing trip you had! I have only been to Frankfort and Heidelberg, Germany so I would love to go back and explore some other cities. Regensburg looks beautiful and I love all the photos of the architecture. Thank you so much for linking up to Take Me Away this month!
    Shelley

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  14. I enjoyed the tour Amy and loved looking at the gorgeous photos and reading about it. I would love to visit sometime. :)

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