Sorrento - A Travel Journal: Our Italy Trip (Part 2)

Ms. Toody's Travel Journal: The Amalfi Coast

(This is a multi-part journal of our recent trip to the Amalfi Coast. You can read Part 1 here).

Day 2 continued - On to Sorrento

I've got a feeling we're not in Naples, anymore, Toto. The scenery has changed drastically, as we drive along the coast. No more traffic, no more congestion. We're winding around the cliffs, and I'm snapping photos like a mad woman through the car windows. I refrain from asking the drive to pull over, until he says, "3, 2, 1...there's Sorrento!" It literally takes our breath away. I ask him to stop; he says we will, but either he doesn't understand me, or he forgets, because we don't stop, and I miss one of the best photo ops of the trip. I'm sulking.

We arrive at the Hotel Tramontano. It's perched at the edge of the cliff, overlooking the sea. I'm hoping it's not one of those "but it looked so nice online" places. 
I needn't have worried. It's beautiful.

The hotel has a rich history. It's been around since 1812. You know that song, Come Back to Sorrento? It was written right here on this terrace. Yup.

Hotel Tramontano

When I planned this trip, my one requirement was that each hotel have a sea view. I go straight to the terrace, and fling the doors open. I think I'm holding my breath.

Oh. My. God. It's perfect. It doesn't get any better than this. 

Oh, but it does get better! Looking down below, is the sparkling sea, jagged cliffs, colorful beach umbrellas and cabanas. I do a happy dance right there on the terrace, which makes Mr. Goo Shoes a little nervous. 

The hotel location couldn't be better, just steps from the pedestrian-only main streets. It's lunch time, and we're hungry. I am armed with my Tripadvisor list. Nope, we can't eat here, it's the one that got a bad rating. How about this place? Mr. Goo Shoes wants to keep looking. I put away my Tripadvisor notes, and let him choose; it's hard for me to relinquish the restaurant reins, as I don't want to "waste" one of our meals in Italy.

We settle on an outdoor cafe that promises good service with a smile. No promises about the food, however, worries me a little. We order paninis...delicious! The name of the restaurant -- Sedil Dominova -- is lost on me for the moment, but in a few hours from now, I'll understand it. We feel much better having a good meal under our belts, which now need to be loosened a notch. 

After lunch, we hit the streets...a shopping paradise! I vow silently to shop till I drop. I just got here, haven't bought a thing, and I'm already worrying about how I'll fit the souvenirs in my suitcase.

 

It takes all of five minutes to see that life gave Sorrento lemons, and they have not only made lemonade, but everything under the sun that one can think of...cookies, candy, soap, lotions, ceramics, tea towels, oil, pasta, honey, and oh, yes, Limoncello. I buy some lemon soaps and lemon honey for my Ms. Toody Goody-box Giveaway.

At the end of the street, we find ourselves in the main square - Piazza Tasso. 

Piazza Tasso

Now we're back to where we had lunch, and I notice a structure I hadn't seen before. I was too busy stuffing my face with that panini. We peak inside -- I recognize it immediately from my pre-trip research. It's where men have gathered for centuries to discuss civic matters. And play poker, it seems. I put my feminist feelings aside just briefly, to enjoy the scene (Later, I look up the name -- Sedil Dominova -- just like the restaurant, which we had lunch in, which is literally in its shadow. Aha!). 

Sedil Dominova

Sedil Dominova

Geez, it's late afternoon, already. Mr. Goo Shoes heads back for a nap. Nap? I don't understand the concept. If I didn't have to, I wouldn't sleep at all. I mean, we're in Italy!

Now that I've got the lay of the land (it doesn't take much - this area of Sorrento is pretty compact), I venture off on my own. The little alleyways are oozing with charm, and get my heart pumping. I can't stop smiling.  

OK, maybe I do need to rest for just a little bit before dinner. Plus, I have GOT to make time to sit on that glorious terrace. 

We have a dinner reservation at Taverna Allegra. I'd read that the live entertainment makes for a really fun evening. I better check the directions on Google Maps. Hmmm...looks pretty easy.

We leave with time to spare. Uh-oh, I'm confused. We are seriously lost--and now, late. But wait - there's that little grocery I saw on Rick Steve's show! Just like where I shop in NJ, lol.

"Do you know where Tavern Allegra is?" We ask this to half a dozen different people. "Turn left just ahead." Well, no wonder we can't find it. It is down the teeniest tiniest alleyway! We get to the door, and the owner comes to greet us -- "Signora Amy?" OK, I'm impressed. I guess he's used to people showing up late because they're lost.

Uh, there's hardly anyone here. Our night of singing along with the waiters isn't going to be all that lively, if it's just me and Mr. Goo Shoes. A few other people show up, but it's disappointingly empty. 

The guitar player is pretty good! And Peppe, the owner is singing. The waiters sing, too. We're having fun -- the wine is helping.

Complimentary prosecco to start, that's nice. Bruschetta, too. I ask the waiter, since I'm obsessed with being right about this, if it's bru-SKEH-ta or bru-SHEH-ta. He's looking at me like I'm nuts, which is surely up for discussion. "We say bru-SKEH-ta." I tell him that everyone in the states says bru-SHEH-ta. He's laughing like that's the funniest thing he's ever heard. I'm gloating. I like to be right.

We share an antipasto for two; laughing about the salami story from our first trip to Italy. I have fettucine with clams and zucchini. AMAZING! Mr. GS has lasagna - he's happy, except he now realizes that I am serious about taking pictures of everything I eat. I am thrilled when the lady next to us starts taking pictures of other people's food. Now I don't look so bad! 

When we're through, it's time to participate in the very Italian tradition of the "passeggiata," which simply means, strolling the streets in the evening. 

We duck into Davide's gelato; there must be 50 flavors. One is Nutella! I'll have that and the caramel, per favore. Mr. GS is ordering vanilla chip and white chocolate. Gelato is the perfect way to end the day.

Day 3 - Sorrento
Waking up on a beautiful sunny day and looking out at the Mediterranean Sea -- not too shabby. I hope no one can see me on the terrace taking pictures in my nightgown! 

I'm ready for my first real Italian breakfast. We are led to a table by the window. The stunning sea view is good for digestion, I think.

There's "uova strapazzate" -- scrambled eggs. I remember this from the Italian CD I bought years ago. Also, salami, ham, yogurt, cheeses, pastries. Mr. Goo Shoes is laughing at my overflowing plate. I'll walk it off, I tell him. 

We want to check out the beach area that we can see from our terrace. Our hotel has an elevator down to sea level. 

Holy moly! Sorrento looks so different from this perspective. Our room is on the first floor, last arched door on the right. Yipes, now that I see our terrace from this angle, I'm not so sure I want to sit on it anymore. 

I remember hearing about a lemon grove in the center of town, so I find it on google maps, and we head over. I must not have looked up the right thing, because we end up at a little shop called I Giardini di Cataldo. It's cute, we're hot; we go in. 

Turns out they make their own Limoncello here. Geez, they really do peel all the lemons by hand. It's morning, but we order gelato anyway. What the heck?  It's way better than last night's. They give us directions to the lemon grove. 

Later, we venture down a steep path to Marina Grande, the main beach in Sorrento, which is also a fishing village. Gonna be fun walking back up!

Oh, wow, it is so picturesque, like a postcard.

Marina Grande

There are lots of places to eat lunch, but we'll be back down here for dinner tonight. Besides, I've been eyeing this pretty restaurant in town --  L'Antica Trattoria. Time to hike back up.

It's magical! I order the fried zucchini blossoms. O.M.G. I think this might be the best thing I have EVER eaten. EVER EVER. (Read about it here). I consider canceling our dinner reservations, and just coming back here.

I'm disappointed that we couldn't get into Bagni Delfino for dinner, but the concierge recommends ZIntonio Mare, also on Marina Grande. The setting sun's reflection on the water and buildings is spectacular! 

Marina Grande

I order zucchini blossoms for the second time in six hours. Mistake. Not even close to the ones I had earlier. My spaghetti with lobster is amazing; Mr. Goo Shoes isn't quite as happy with his gnocchi.

It's such a nice night, that we walk over to the little park overlooking the water. How perfect that an accordion player is providing free entertainment. 

Is everyday in Sorrento this sublime? I could definitely stay longer, but in the morning, we are off to Positano...and I've got a feeling that the best is yet to come!

Here's a sneak peak:

To be continued...

Sorry for so many photos - I couldn't help myself!  

RESOURCES:
Imperial Hotel Tramontano
Ristorante Sedil Dominova
Tavern Allegra 
Davide Gelateria
Rick Steve's Amalfi Coast (TV episode)

You may also like:

Naples & Pompeii: Italy Travel Journal - Part 1

Positano: Italy Travel Journal - Part 3

Amalfi & Ravello: Italy Travel Journal - Part 4

Capri: Italy Travel Journal - Part 5

Ten Must-Eat Foods In Italy

Linking With:
Best of the Weekend
Metamorphosis Monday
Our World Tuesday
The Scoop 

Tweak It Tuesday
Treasure Box Tuesday 
Lou Lou Girls Fabulous Party  
Wake Up Wednesday
Wow Us Wednesday 
What's It Wednesday  
Simple and Sweet Friday 
Home Sweet Home 
Let's Get Real 
Weekend Travel Inspiration
Take Me Away