Naples & Pompeii - A Travel Journal: Our Italy Trip (Part 1)

Ms. Toody's Travel Journal: The Amalfi Coast

Day 1: New York To Naples

Last-minute items packed? Check. Passports in purse? Check. Keurig unplugged? 

Just a sec...forgot to do that. OK!

It's time to leave for Italy!

I'm as giddy as a kiddie headed to Disneyworld. We're finally going back to Italy after ten years. The last trip was to Rome, Florence, Venice and Tuscany. This time, our destination is the Amalfi coast. We're flying Air France to Naples, with a connection in Paris. The flight's on time...so far, so good!

We stop in Paris just long enough to look in the airport's souvenir shops, and ogle the colorful macaron displays. The Longchamp store is having a sale. I sniff it out like a bloodhound. Should I buy a tote bag? I'm sure it costs less here than it does 

at home. I think I'll wait till the return trip. 

The connection to Naples is just under two hours. We arrive at about noon, and find a cab quickly. We're incredulous at the seemingly nonexistent rules of the road. Cars and motorcycles turning every which way; lanes created wherever they want. Red light? No need to stop. We've never seen driving like this anywhere. Ever. NY cabbies drive like grandma, compared to this.

My expectations for Naples are low. I've done my reading -- pickpockets, Mafia, stuff like that. First impressions? Surly and gruff. This NYC-savvy gal is a little nervous. Will we feel safe venturing out? Thank goodness we're here only for one night. I remind myself that I'm here only for the pizza.

We're staying at the Hotel Excelsior, down by the waterfront. Waterfront, as in Bay Of Naples. Surprisingly, it's quiet. It's a pedestrian-only area, and I breathe a sigh of relief, since I've read that crossing the streets in Naples is risky business. 

My need to explore overpowers any qualms I have. I'm chomping at the bit to head outside, but we're exhausted, and give in to a short nap. Afterwards, I scope out every inch of the hotel, even though we'll be checking out in the morning. But, we'll be back here again, at the end of our trip. The views from the hotel restaurant are extraordinary. 

In five seconds flat, I'm loving the little piece of Naples within my view, which includes a 12th century castle, and Mt. Vesuvius.

I leave my jewelry in the hotel, even though it's costume, just to be on the safe side. But, once outside, "surly" and "gritty" are quickly forgotten. 

La Fontana dell'Immacolatella

Castel dell'Ovo

Naples is the birthplace of pizza, and I've spent weeks researching the best pizza places. There are two within walking distance of the hotel. This does mean we have to cross a street, and it is terrifying, with cars coming from everywhere, but I'll do anything for pizza. Looking like pitiful tourists, someone finally stops, and lets us cross. 

Both places are closed! Grrr! Can't figure out why. Monday? Holiday? We cross that street again, and head to the marina next to the castle. We choose a restaurant using the eeny-meeny-miny-moe method. I'm about to have a hissy fit that my first meal in Italy hasn't been vetted by Tripadvisor. Ristorante Ciro...and...we're the only ones here. 

Can't beat the setting, though. Nice view of our hotel (on the right) across the Marina.

The meal is mostly good. My pasta is a little disappointing, but Mr. Goo Shoes' is very good. Most importantly, the pizza is amazing, and the free Limoncello is delish! (I did take photos of every single thing I ate -- you can read about that here).

Salute! 

We force ourselves to stay out a bit, and marvel at the how the sunset is painting Mt. Vesuvius pink. 

Via Partenope

 

 

Mt. Vesuvius

But jetlag wins and we're off to bed.  I'm asleep. I'm awake. I'm texting with my sister at 3:00am. I'm asleep. The phone rings at 5:00am. It's Junior Goo Shoes, calling from camp. He forgot about the time difference.

Day 2: Pompeii and Sorrento
We are being picked up at 10am to go to Pompeii. The front desk sends us around the corner for breakfast at Bar Tourist. Seriously? Bar Tourist? I'm relieved to see that the place is filled with locals, go figure. I order caffé, and get espresso. 
I know better; I should have asked for caffé americano, I'm just rusty after 10 years. 

The driver leaves us at Pompeii. He's to return for us in two hours. We snap a picture of the license plate, since he's got our luggage in the trunk, and we're thinking it's 50/50 that we'll see it again. 

Friends told us to book a two-hour tour with a private guide. We didn't. I know us. It's not our thing. We rent headsets, instead, and ditch them 10 minutes later, since we can't figure them out. Clearly we are not getting all out of Pompeii that we should be. 

It's incredible to see this preserved, ancient Roman city, that was literally stopped dead in its tracks, when Mt. Vesuvius erupted in 79 C.E. I glance over at the sleeping volcano -- damn, it's close -- just to make sure it's not smoldering. Phew.

We eavesdrop on some tour guides. "That was a store. That was a house". Pompeii is really cool, but it's really hot. After a half hour, we look at each other. We've seen enough rubble, and we take pictures just to prove that we were here.

We bolt, and head to the juice stand across the street. We laugh that we're having more fun sitting in the cafe, drinking frozen lemon/orange juice, than we did in Pompeii. (Please keep this between us, okay? I've got an image to preserve). Don't get me wrong, Pompeii is awesome, and it's not to be missed. But for us, the highlights were enough. It's like my feeling about museums  - show me the Mona Lisa, and let's go eat.



The driver returns. We're tempted to ask him to open the trunk but we don't. 

Next stop: Sorrento! Let the real vacation begin!

To Be Continued...

RESOURCES:
Hotel Excelsior Naples
Ristorante Ciro 
Bar Tourist
Rick Steve's Naples and Pompeii (TV episode)

You may also like:

 Sorrento -  Our Italy Trip (Part 2)

 Positano -  Our Italy Trip (Part 3)

 Amalfi & Ravello - Our Italy Trip (Part 4)

 Capri - Our Italy Trip (Part 5)
 

Ten Must-Eat Foods In Italy


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