Amalfi & Ravello: A Travel Journal - Our Trip to Italy (Part 4)

Ms. Toody's Travel Journal: The Amalfi Coast

(This is a multi-part journal of our recent trip to the Amalfi Coast. You can read Part 1: Naples here; Part 2: Sorrento here; Part 3: Positano here).

Day 5 - Amalfi and Positano

OMG OMG OMG! I wake up in a sweat, wondering how in the world we will get our luggage all the way down to the beach on Sunday, when we catch the ferry to Capri. There is no way to avoid stairs, and I seriously consider driving all the way back to Sorrento to take the ferry from there, rather than shlep our suitcases down those steps. I don't care what it costs.

I hyperventilate all the way to the lobby, and Francesca quickly allays those fears. Clearly, we are not the first tourists in Positano to have this dilemma. There is a porter service that will take the bags to the dock for $10 per bag. Done deal! Phew. 

I can relax now and enjoy breakfast, which is included with the room rate. It's small, but I'm content with the croissants -- they offer "cream-filled" and "empty," which I find to be hilarious. I learn that in Italy, cappuccino is strictly for breakfast --order it after dinner, and you risk being looked at like you have two American heads.

This morning we walk down 300 steps to the beach. Not bad at all, but up? Never gonna happen. We sit on a bench enjoying the hustle and bustle at beach level while we wait for our ferry to Amalfi.

They say the best way to see Positano is from the water, and whoever "they" are, they're right. I am snapping away like crazy, and it won't be until later that I find out I have a huge smudge on my lens that ruins almost every photo. Good thing there is a return trip. 

The ferry to Amalfi takes only 25 minutes. The scenery along the coast is more than ample entertainment. I wonder what it's like to live in one of those little villages. I'm open to giving it a try, even though I've said I could never live in a place where there is no Trader Joe's.

We spot a few of the Saracen defensive towers (there are 30 along the entire coastline). Fires were lit in the towers to warn of approaching enemies. Very Game of Thrones-ish, and I think I see Sansa Stark standing in the window with a candle.

Amalfi comes into view. I don't realize it just yet, but I believe the big beige building on the extreme left is the Hotel Cappuccini on Dewena's postcard that she writes about when we get home.

The Duomo dominates Amalfi's main square. As much as we'd like to peak inside, it's our day off from steps, so we admire from below.

We plan to stay the afternoon, but I wonder how we will fill our time since Amalfi is so compact. Eating is a good way to kill time.

We walk down the main alleyway, poking in and out of the shops.

Herbs to buy here, ceramics to buy there, gelato to buy everywhere.

Someone's got a sense of humor!

The decision on where to eat lunch is made by selecting a place that will stay shady. The pizza is really good, and we linger, until we feel the urge to head elsewhere for gelato. I wish I could figure out a way to hop from restaurant to restaurant all day long, without getting full -- or fat -- as cafe-sitting in Europe has got to be one of life's greatest pleasures.

A few last looks, a couple of final purchases, and we head back to the ferry.

 

A  tour group of Chinese teenagers is on the ferry, listening to their leader. We can't understand what he's saying, but suddenly, he bursts into song, singing in Italian, in a perfect operatic voice. The Italian tourists join in. The whole boat is cheering him on. This will go down in the books as one of those memorable vacation moments. 

I am looking forward to dinner tonight. I want one over-the-top dining experience at a Michelin star restaurant. Before leaving for Italy, I made a reservation at La Sponda at the very swanky Sirenuse Hotel.

I tell Mr. Goo Shoes that he has to wear pants for only two hours during the entire vacation, because I've read that they turn away men in shorts. He immediately points out the guy at the next table, who is wearing shorts, of course.

The sunset view is to die for...

The restaurant is stunning. We are ready for a truly memorable evening!

I'm underwhelmed when they bring carrot and celery sticks with what appears to be ranch dressing. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think a Michelin-star restaurant should serve something I keep in the fridge for snacks. I won't judge yet.

They offer us champagne, like it's on the house, but we don't fall for that 50-Euro-a-bottle trick.

The menu comes, and I struggle to find something that appeals to me.

By the time we finish our first course, I'm finally able to admit to myself, and then to Mr. GS, that I didn't like it. He didn't like his, either, but he knows how much I've been looking forward to this, so he doesn't say anything until I do. Neither of us enjoys our second course. My crab dumplings just aren't good. Mr. Goo Shoes says that Trader Joe's lamb chops taste better than the two skimpy ones on his plate. In all honesty, three of four dishes we ordered should have been sent back. For the life of me, I can't explain why, in the moment, we don't do this.

I'm crushed, so much so that I consider skipping dessert, but I cannot resist the lemon basil cake, which is delicious, especially while being serenaded by guitar and mandolin. But it's not enough to make us forget about this meal. Honestly? The food on Air France was better. And for what this meal cost, we could have flown to Paris and back for a really great dinner.

Yes, we got memorable, all right. While lying in bed, I'm writing a scathing Tripadvisor review in my head, when I come up with "don't spenda at La Sponda!" At least we have a good laugh about it. (More about the food we ate here).

Day 6: Ravello and Positano

Mr. Goo Shoes feels like something different for breakfast. He saw a sign for "American Breakfast" at the cafe where we had lunch on our first day in Positano. Frankly, the last thing I want in Italy is anything American, but in the spirit of compromise, we go. Mistake Of The Day #1. We order omelettes with tomatoes. Two plain omelettes are placed in front of us and we ask, "where are the tomatoes?" The waiter looks puzzled, and says, "It comes with tomato sauce." Now we look confused...and he points to the ketchup...there's our tomatoes.

The teeniest car we have ever seen comes zipping by. Maybe we should rent one of those! Mr. Goo Shoes, the practical one, wonders where we'd park it. I suggest we take it upstairs and keep it in the extra bedroom! But then we remember there's no elevator. Scratch that.

Unsatisfied after our 39-Euro omelettes, we go back to the hotel breakfast room to fill up on couple of "empty" croissants before heading to Ravello.

Ernesto is our driver.  He's very nice, stopping along the way so we can take pictures. Mr. GS and I agree that this stretch of the Amalfi coastline between Positano and Ravello is what all the fuss is about. It is STUNNING.

"They" didn't tell us that seeing Positano from up here was spectacular! 

We recognize some areas from our ferry ride yesterday. Today we see Amalfi from a different perspective.

Up and up and up we go into the cliffs, until we reach Ravello at the top. We've got three hours until Ernesto returns. As soon as we arrive, I wish we had more time. Like three days, maybe. Mistake Of The Day #2.

Ravello and Amalfi couldn't be more different. Amalfi is boisterous; Ravello, refined. Our first destination is the Villa Cimbrone, from which some of the most spectacular views in the world are promised.

It's not the easiest walk. Steep walkways and 20 minutes later, we're here. The magnificent views give us permission to stop and catch our breath along the way.

The garden path to the Infinity Terrace is spectacular.

Good-golly-wolly! The views from the Infinity Terrace are amazing!

It would really suck if I drop my camera right now.

The beaches of Minori and Maiori are below. Way below. Mr. Goo Shoes tells me not to stand too close to the edge.

The views are great, but I'm chomping at the bit to find some ceramics, for which Ravello is world-renowned. True to form, I'm thinking, this is nice, we saw it, let's go shopping.

Mr. Goo Shoes finds a nice bench, and I run from shop to shop. 

 

Nothing is doing it for me, and I don't want to settle. At my final stop, I think I find what I'm looking for, but I can't decide on an empty stomach.

We have lunch in the main square. I'm obsessing over the dishes, knowing with each bite, that I want to go back and buy them. There is only one thing that will make me snarf down a meal and that is knowing that I'm going to purchase something. Mr. Goo Shoes and I go back for another look.

Si, signora, I will take them! (see what I bought here). They will make two, and ship them for a reasonable fee. If I spend more, the shipping will be free, but I am too overwhelmed, because we are meeting Ernesto in five minutes. We leave, and I already regret this, knowing I am making BIG Mistake Of The Day #3. 

On the walk to the car, Mr. Goo Shoes sees a restaurant with huge poster of Sofia Lauren. He poses next to it, and when I tell him that's as close as he'll ever get, he's crushed.

Before Ernesto drops us off at the hotel, he takes us way high up in the mountains for another perspective of Positano. Hoo Hah, this is special. Raise his tip an extra five bucks!

We actually have dinner plans up here tonight. The hotel recommended the restaurant, C'era uno Volta, and I double check the reviews on Tripadvisor, which are excellent. We have high hopes, especially after last night's debacle. 

The restaurant's free shuttle picks us up; we are led to an outdoor terrace with a view of -- oh, poo, an obstructed view -- of the sea. And sadly, the food is fair. Mistake Of The Day #4. 

The evening does end with a happy twist, when there are fireworks over the cliffs, as we have our dessert. Perfect, as it is July 4th, after all.

To be continued...

Sneak Peak: Capri

RESOURCES:
Caffe Il Protontino- Amalfi
Hotel Cappuccini - Amalfi
Ristorante La Sponda- Positano
Hotel Le Sirenuse - Positano
Villa Cimbrone - Ravello
Caffe Calce - Ravello
Ristorante C'era Una Volta
Pascal Ceramiche d' Arte
Rick Steve's Amalfi Coast (TV episode) 

You may also like:

Naples & Pompeii: Italy Travel Journal - Part 1

Sorrento: Italy Travel Journal - Part 2

Positano: Italy Travel Journal - Part 3

Capri: Italy Travel Journal - Part 5

Ten Must-East Foods In Italy

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