Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

I've hung up my dress-for-success clothes, and pulled my domestic "genes" out of storage.

Sunday, August 2, 2015

Positano: A Travel Journal - Our Italy Trip (Part 3)

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Ms. Toody's Travel Journal: The Amalfi Coast

(This is a multi-part journal of our recent trip to the Amalfi Coast. You can read Part 1: Naples here and Part 2: Sorrento here). 

Day 4 - From Sorrento to Positano
The driver who is taking us to Positano will be here in an hour. That gives me plenty of time to run out for a few more souvenirs.  Mr. Goo Shoes just shakes his head. After all these years, he knows that sitting still is just not in my DNA. He is content to hang out on the terrace for an hour, taking in the view. Yeah, he's got a point, and for a second, I'm tempted to do just that. But shopping wins. Shopping ALWAYS wins.

When we were planning this vacation, I told Mr. Goo Shoes there was one condition -- we would NOT, and I mean NOT -- rent a car and drive ourselves along the Amalfi coast road, which hugs the edge of the cliffs. It's not that he's not capable -- he is the best driver I know, really. It's that I would be a wreck, and probably freak him out. I've heard all about this white-knuckle ride, so I want someone to drive us who knows the road like the back of his/her Italian hand.

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

I am prepared for the worst, except that I do not feel fearful at all. Our driver is taking it slow, and no buses come the other way, forcing us do some fancy maneuvering on this narrow roadway high above the sea. 

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

The closer we get to Positano, the more beautiful the scenery becomes. Getting there really is half the fun. We arrive so quickly, I'm almost disappointed.

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

From what we can see from the car, Positano is gorgeous! I mean, DROP-DEAD GORGEOUS (and climbing hundreds of steps to get everywhere, yes, one just might drop dead).

I'm a little nervous to see our hotel. We booked this trip late, and room availability was slim to none. I was adamant about a room with a view, and wanted to stay right on the main road, so we didn't have to negotiate a hundred steps just to get in and out of the hotel. Hotel Reginella seemed to fit the bill. Glowing Tripadvisor reviews sold me despite its 2-star rating. OK, OK, I'll deal with it, since the other things -- location, location, location -- matter more in this case. 

The hotel exterior is darling! Francesca warmly welcomes us; unfortunately, our room is not ready. Somehow, this is more tolerable when said in a charming Italian accent. No worries, we'll go out and explore, and have some lunch.

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Positano is a vertical town, built into the side of a cliff. We walk uphill, ooh-ing and huffing;  aah-ing and puffing.

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Even the footage from Rick Steve's show doesn't do justice to the breathtaking scenery that is Positano.  


We have a lot of time to kill, but don't want to walk too far. We walk to a bend in the road that looks like a cave. It's not, but it's a good place to rest.

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes


We're not that hungry, but it's something to do while we wait for our room. There are restaurants everywhere; we choose Caffe Positano, just across from our hotel, which is perched on the edge of the cliff, overlooking the...holy MOLY! Wouldja look at that? It's our first clear view straight down to the beach. I hope they forget to place our order, because if all I do is sit right here for the next three days... I'm good with that.

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

I order ensalda caprese. Mr. GS orders...say what? A fruit platter? I can almost hear my sister saying, who goes to Italy and orders fruit? Sometimes, traveling with a non-foodie, is, well, mind-boggling.

Our room is ready. There is no elevator, and we are on the third floor. Thankfully, our luggage is sent up in a little freight elevator. Mr. GS forgets to put my 2-ton backpack in it, and is grunting and groaning his way up the stairs. But all is forgotten when Francesca opens the door, and straight ahead we see...

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

No words!

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes
Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes
Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

We can reach out and touch Positano. I have an urge to start singing The Hills Are Alive (in Italian, of course), because OH WOW, OH WOW, OH WOW, just doesn't cut it. 

The room is simple; not luxurious, yet, it is absolutely charming. We are pleasantly surprised. But wait, Francesca says there's more, as she leads us in to a second bedroom, with another full bath, and another terrace! Hoo-Hah! It takes us a half-hour to decide which room to sleep in. The winner is ultimately the one with the better air conditioning.

So, 2-star? True, there are no frilly amenities like pretty soaps; not even a phone or fridge, but in this case, we'd rather have this 5-star view than fluffy bathrobes and slippers.

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Back in the lobby, Francesca and her mother (?) give us the lay of the land. 

There are steps directly across the street leading down to the beach. 300 steps to be precise, but in 5 minutes, you're at sea level. Down? No problem. Up? Oy vey. 


The alternate route is a 15-minute walk down the main road. We head that way today. 

So many distractions! 

Hand-made sandals are the thing to buy on the Amalfi coast. Should I? 

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Ceramics are everywhere. 

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes


Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

There are so many shops, I worry that three days may not be enough time to check them all out.

Around every bend, Positano is a colorful feast for the eyes.

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes
Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes
Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

We find our way to the beach by following throngs of people down the narrow walkway. I can't get them to move to take a clear photo.

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Head towards the Duomo, we're told. We catch a glimpse through a stairwell.

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes


Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes


Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Down the steps, and onto the beach. It's a whole different world down here.

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes
Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

We stay a bit, psyching ourselves for the climb back up. We have found out quickly that there's no way to avoid long steep hills and endless stairs. Taxis cannot necessarily take us door-to-door, and the bus stop itself, is a hike. Positano is not for the unfit.

Our reward for all that walking is a small bottle of Prosecco, shared on our terrace as the sun goes down. We know even now that this will be remembered as Perfect Moment #1 in Positano. We toast the view; we toast ourselves, we toast Verizon, who makes a small fortune when my sister calls to say she landed a new job (which ironically may take her to Naples on a business trip). 

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Positano takes on a different look; its beauty muted as the sun goes down. 
Pinch me. Is this really our view?

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

We're 'fame' (hungry). Ristorante Da Vincenzo is our choice, because it's blessedly close - about two minutes and no steps! 

Mr. GS has the buffalo mozzarella and tomatoes, which is 1,000 times better than what I had for lunch. I am swooning over my grilled veggie appetizer, topped with the most delectable ricotta cheese I've ever had. We both order the angel hair pasta with lemon...so simple but so delicious! This meal is amazing from start to finish. (Read about the food we ate here).

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Is that really a full orange moon rising over the water? I am fretting that I haven't learned enough about my camera to take a picture of Perfect Moment #2. This will have to do. 

Positano: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

We walk back talking about how much we love Positano. But there's one more surprise in store. Somewhere around midnight, I hear fireworks. I go out to the terrace and for the next hour, I'm in my glory, watching a fireworks show over the top of the mountain. I forget I'm in my nightgown, but fortunately, the people in the next room aren't on their terrace.

Perfect Moment #3,
except that Mr. Goo Shoes sleeps through the entire thing.

I go to bed, grateful for the day we've had; looking forward to tomorrow. 

Good night.

To be continued...(don't worry - I'm not doing individual posts for each day. No one is that interested in my trip, not even me).  

Sneak Peak: Amalfi and Ravello

Ravello: A Travel Journal | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Resources:
Hotel Reginella
Caffe Positano
Ristorante Da Vincenzo
Rick Steve's Amalfi Coast (TV episode)

You may also like:


Naples & Pompeii: Italy Travel Journal - Part 1


Sorrento: Italy Travel Journal - Part 2



Amalfi & Ravello: Italy Travel Journal - Part 4


Capri: Italy Travel Journal - Part 5


10 Must-Eat Foods In Italy






46 comments:

  1. Amy,
    Sooooo gorgeous. I am going back to see part 1 and 2. What a fantastic trip.
    Kris

    ReplyDelete
  2. I'm interested. I loved our trip here...Would love to go back but stay for a month!

    ReplyDelete
  3. So beautiful! that is a beautiful area. You go on the most exotic vacations (compared to me). I will live vicariously through you!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Looks like you lucked out for weather, and gorgeous pictures! We stayed near Amalfi on our trip, but visited Positano. You caught the atmosphere perfectly!

    ReplyDelete
  5. This was truly the trip of a lifetime Amy! I love that Positano was built into the side of a mountain, but I suppose the trade off for all that beauty and character are those endless steps. The colors of the houses are so pretty too. That's something Europe does so much better than we do here in the states.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Actually I wouldn't mind a daily report if they came with such stunning photos! We visited here as a cruise ship stop so did that road on first a large bus and then transferred to a smaller one as the road narrowed and got more winding. I still remember looking out and down (wrong!) from the bus window and nearly hyperventilating. Next time slow and low to the ground for me!!!

    ReplyDelete
  7. It just keeps getting better and better!! I am dying over the gorgeousness of it all and... the food. Can't wait to read more!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Oh what awesome trip!!!! Your pictures look wonderful and the places you visited are just beautiful!

    ReplyDelete
  9. You are a raconteur. I love reading your narrative. With beautiful photos to boot. Thanks.

    Worth a Thousand Words

    ReplyDelete
  10. I have been looking forward to this part of your post. I visited Positano many years ago now but the memories are special and yes Positano is gorgeous.

    Great post Amy, thanks for sharing your wonderful photo's too.

    All the best Jan

    ReplyDelete
  11. I have been looking forward to this part of your post. I visited Positano many years ago now but the memories are special and yes Positano is gorgeous.

    Great post Amy, thanks for sharing your wonderful photo's too.

    All the best Jan

    ReplyDelete
  12. Beautiful shots from your trip. Very much inviting.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Wow - what a fabulous view! What is the name of the hotel? Looks charming. And your shots are just gorgeous!

    ReplyDelete
  14. I have just added Positano to my trip! I have to start walking or stair climbing to get ready. I remember looking out of the terrace in Sorrento and having the same reaction you did in Positano.....WOW!

    ReplyDelete
  15. Aren't you lucky, Amy! This is absolutely stunning. I've heard that it was one of the nicest parts of Italy and now I know that it really is. Thanks for taking us along.
    Amalia
    xo

    ReplyDelete
  16. Amazing scenes and beautiful photos. What an awesome place to vacation. Thanks for sharing, enjoy your week!

    ReplyDelete
  17. WOW. I knew it was beautiful because of the movie Under the Tuscan Sun, but this is a whole other perspective. I wouldn't mind the steps as long as I had great food and lots of cocktails waiting for me ;)

    xo,
    rue

    ReplyDelete
  18. It's beautiful! We're hoping to go to Italy next year and you're hitting some of the spots I picked out. Great photos

    ReplyDelete
  19. Wow Amy what an amazing vacation you had to Italy! My favorite place visit and eat! I loved looking at your fabulous photos!
    I hope you have a great day.
    Julie

    ReplyDelete
  20. Such amazing photos! I've loved getting to see all the great places you visited...thanks for sharing!
    Dorene @ Seasonal Chapters

    ReplyDelete
  21. amazing pictures
    I always thought it would be so great to have a pair of Italian shoes made special for me
    The Italian sandals
    and yes you would definitely have to be fit to make all those stairs up and down to the beach, didn't see any port-a-potties? LOL

    ReplyDelete
  22. Oh my goodness, Amy, can this be real?

    Positano, layer upon layer of colorful buildings. Well, they have been at it a long time I guess.

    I love every picture, love your enthusiasm for each thing you saw and did and your sweet hotel. Looking foreword to the next episode!

    And thank you for checking up on the other hotel! That's fascinating and I'll leave you the postcard in my will!

    Dewena

    ReplyDelete
  23. I could linger here forever. What great photos you have shared. No one can help wanting to go and experience such loveliness for themselves.

    ReplyDelete
  24. That view from the hotel is to die for. What wonderful photo memories of what sounds like another fantastic day in Italy.

    ReplyDelete
  25. That's a gorgeous place ! I love the old towns !! It would be great to visit Positano someday !!
    Wonderful photos !!
    Greetings

    ReplyDelete
  26. Amazing post as always! We have a lot of things in common. I have a problem waiting and sitting still too. Plus, I freak out when we are driving along cliffs. I would not let my husband the Amalfi Coast because I know I will put him in a bad mood with all my "Slow Down," "Watch Out" or "Do not stop next to that cliff."

    ReplyDelete
  27. We did a day trip to Positano while we were staying in Sorrento - but with a child that can get carsick with even the slightest of bends in the road, we opted to go via the ferry boat. It was the most magical of experiences. That place just defies gravity - it truly is a vertical town! And it looks like you experienced the very best of it. (came here via ##wkendtravelinspiration)

    ReplyDelete
  28. Amazing, fabulous, breathtaking, glorious, no words can fully describe the beauty of Positano... but you came very close, with the backup of some stunning photos. I tots agree about not hiring a car and driving yourself, apart from the scare factor, that view is too heavenly to miss a moment and those roads certainly dictate full attention. Thank you so much for linking such an exciting post with #TheWeeklyPostcard

    ReplyDelete
  29. What a selection of gorgeous photos showcasing this area. Great to see that there is more than just the cliffs with wondering down alley ways and discovering beautiful craft.

    ReplyDelete
  30. Hello Amy, what a lovely post and photos. Positano is just a gorgeous picturesque place to visit and stay. The view from your hotel is just stunning. The food sounds delicious too. Thanks for sharing your trip! Enjoy your new week ahead!

    ReplyDelete
  31. What a wonderful post! I'm ready to go to Positano. But definitely have to work on my fitness level first! haha Your photos are gorgeous! Italy is at the top of my must see list, now I have to add another city to it!! Thank you for sharing!!

    ReplyDelete
  32. This place I'm dying to see! Some day!

    #wkendtravelinspiration

    ReplyDelete
  33. Well, I, for one, is THAT interested in your trip as I've never been to Italy and I also love your hotel as two-stars is already out of my budge... I love seeing it through your eyes!

    ReplyDelete
  34. All beautiful...can't get over those shots of the flowering vines growing up the buildings! :)

    ReplyDelete
  35. Wow, Amy, what a gorgeous place! Your photos are fantastic-- I felt like I was there myself just reading your post. Can't wait to see your posts for Amalfi and Ravello.

    ReplyDelete
  36. Amy, I love Italy and the Amalfi Coast, but boy oh boy there are a lot of people there most of the year. Your photos are gorgeous!

    Happy Weekend Travel Inspiration!

    ReplyDelete
  37. Wow. Wow. Wow. Incredible narrative. Incredible photography. Thank you for aharing your amazing trip in such depth!

    ReplyDelete
  38. I am so glad Kim featured you at SSS ... otherwise I may not have come across your blog! WOW! What gorgeous photos of such a beautiful place. We are planning our 25th anniversary trip to Italy next year & this will be something I can reference! Looks like you had a spectacular time. I'm looking up parts 1 & 2.

    ReplyDelete
  39. Wow! Your pictures are stunning ... it looks and sounds like the trip of a lifetime!

    ReplyDelete
  40. Oh what a beautiful place! Beautiful! Thank´s for sharing this place with us...
    Have a great week, take care!

    Titti

    ReplyDelete
  41. I'm interested. I loved our trip here...Would love to go back but stay for a month!Cartincoupon.com


    ReplyDelete
  42. Positano is beautiful beyond words! I actually drove that scary route because I couldn't trust anyone else to drive slow enough! It was terrifying but breathtaking! Have you ever seen the movie, Only You with Marisa Tomei and Robert Downey, Jr.? It was filmed on location there and brings back so many memories every time I watch it! Thanks for sharing your amazing travel stories with us at this month's Take Me Away Link Party! Enjoy your weekend!
    Shelley

    ReplyDelete
  43. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete
  44. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete